[Jaislmere to Varanasi, INDIA]

Jaislmere borders on the desert, and has great military aircraft spotting opportunities thanks to an active airforce base located closely to the 'friendly' Pakistan border. Like many before me we did a 2 day camel safari through the dessert region, which for deserts, was rather unimpressive. Never again! My legs ached from hanging unsupported all day and my balls were used as a stopper in the saddle... too much discomfort for the rewards. Camels fart notoriously often, can be a grumpy and rather stubborn beast. Dont keep em as a pet I say.

One of my favourite oddities was when we visited the rat temple in Bikaner. As always, one is required to remove ones shoes before entry, to walk around the stone pathed temple; stepping in rat excrement... But what made me grimace was when rats ran over my feet. And they are big! They feed the buggers, large bowls of milk and grain ensures they reach their full sizes. Probably the most bizarre temple I have ever visited.

South into Pushkar, which is, a peaceful town surrounding a holy lake, the entire banks of the lake are considered to be a temple. A chill out place in north India that attracts like minded people too; marijuana lassies are served in chai (tea) shops.

Agra- the Taj Mahal. I was surprised at how beautiful and huge it was despite having seen many buildings after months of travelling; I gasped when I first caught a glimpse of it. Such extravagance and symmetry for the mere purpose to house 2 coffins (or am I missing the point?)

Eastwards into Khajuraho, delicately restored temples decorated in fine detailed rock carvings. More known for the erotic images of sumptuously curved women in daily poses..to the extreme where a panel depicts a man buggering a horse. The Kiwis and Belgians would like this one! :-)

And my final destination of India, like many Indians (good for your karma if youre cremated by the river), Varanasi. It really is just too intense... which is why many travelers say that it takes many days to notice all the happenings going on. Cows, monkeys, scooters and people weave through the old town streets to the Ganges and every now and then a 6 team stretcher bearer chanting hymns carry a golden cloth corpse to the burning ghats on the river bank. Step outside the old town centre and the streets are overly crowded with traffic, pollution. I heard it as a myth from a guy and I was convinced he was too much on the drink until I saw it myself- fresh water dolphins in the Ganges. Reputable as the most polluted watercourse in the world and there, arching their backs in the early rising sunlight, swam dolphins past....

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