[The Trek that Wasnt- NEPAL]

I was supposed to trek the Annapurna Circuit in the Himalayas for 14- 18 days from the 8th of March. Well actually, I did start.

The first day was tough, but thats nothing unusual. On the 2nd day I couldnt find my rhythm and it was even tougher and by lunch on the 3rd day I was just exhausted... and it was then that 2 Belgians pointed out to me in a restaurant that I have yellow eyes...and it was true! I had already had problems with my stomach for the last few days and now it appears Jaundice has set in.

Thus I had to walk 2 days back, and even though I had a porter to carry my pack on the way down...it was very tiring. I arrived at the local town community hospital and I believe I slept in the chair whilst waiting for attention; hours later I was attended to. By now its 7pm and its curfew time, and I was despondently faced to spend a night in the hospital...and we arent talking about a western hospital of course! No food or water available, thats what families are for. I had a room with another really sick guy who was coughing alot and I wondered if I would just get more sick just being here.....

Just as life seemed to get me down...and as I settled to sleep, the 2 doctors from Europe (Dutch and Swiss) who are working here with a Christian NGO offered me a room in their house. That was like winning the lottery for me, I was and am ever so grateful!

Besis Sahar is a village and backs onto the Himalayas and because of the strike forced by Maoists, no transport was coming or going in town...local food prices went up. But I was mostly oblivious to all this as I ate with the doctors and their family and slept most of the days. I had a series of tests but nothing concrete could be drawn, just drink lots of water and take plenty of rest, could take months some say.

I really enjoyed talking with the Swiss family and in a way, despite the circumstances it was a great experience. I also got to learn alot about Nepal that I wouldnt have seen. People were getting edgy and news was spreading about an imminent attack from the Maoists, the doctors were incredibly calm about it. After a week I jumped at a chance to go via a 'tourist' bus back to Pokhara, where I have been since. We passed a burn out bus on the road that the Maoists have attacked, confirming the rumors that spread like wild fire in such small towns.

Last weekend 3000 or so Maoists attacked the Kings army an hour west of Pokhara, I am so glad my friends are safe and unhurt as the attack was far from them. In 2 days the King will visit Pokhara (more strikes) and the city is crawling with armed personnel.

As for me, I am slowly getting better, taking plenty of R & R, ideally I just want to be home now...To say I am so frustrated with the hygiene of developing nations is an UNDERSTATEMENT!

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